In Memory of Winter

January in Texas will unpredictably chill you to the bones or amaze you in sunny warmth. This past January, I took off on a day ride through the Hill Country to enjoy the Texas winter before it left us again.

As I frequently do, I took Texas highway 16 out of town. Once I passed Bandera, I took FM 470 west through Tarpley, where I noticed a number of bikers gearing up after taking a break at one of the stops there. 470 dead-ends into highway 187, so I headed south into Utopia.

At this point I realize I'm recreating an old ride I did a few years ago. I decided that was okay and went along with it.

I dropped into Lost Maples Restaurant to "wet my whistle" and rode off. I headed south - ever so slightly. FM 1050 looks like a side road as you approach it. I hooked right and rode it west until I reached US 83. I could have turned south and rode to Uvalde, but that town is busier than what I had a taste for. I had only seen a few bikes and a few more cars once I left 16 - I wasn't about to spoil that solitude now.

Above: Scenes from a rest stop on Highway 83

A star and a moon over Texas.

I traveled north on 83 until I reached Leakey. I remembered that I had a really good meal at one of the restaurants here once, but I really didn't want to sit and wait for a meal. In the summer, I used to ride out to the east side of this small town on 337 and cool my feet in the Frio River - before they built up a concrete reinforcement for the road. Now, it's not as pretty nor as enjoyable a stop. Besides, I don't need to cool down now. It's mid-afternoon, and I want to return home before dark - and the evening cool - arrive.

I head west again, this time on FM 337. I watch for the slow downs combined with sharp radius turns with a fairly shear drop on my right and near-vertical, rock-dropping hill across the other lane to my left. I allow myself to slow way down so I can safely get a good look across the valley and soak in the solitude. I've only seen one or two cars this time - unusual but lovely.

I pull into Camp Wood but don't stop. I head north on Texas highway 55 towards Rocksprings. I love this road, even if it's four-laned much of the way. The sun is setting and casting long shadows across the hills. The Nueces River follows me to the left until I reach Barksdale. I had to make a decision: left to Rocksprings or take the shortcut to Texas highway 41 via FM 335. I opt for the longer path, hoping my jacket will keep me warm enough until I get home.

The shadows grow long near sunset in the
Texas Hill Country.

The FJR takes a break while I snap a few pictures.

I catch Texas highway 41 east in Rocksprings. The road here is long, strait and sparsely traveled. I take advantage of my opportunity while I still have daylight. I look to the north and see heavy clouds. I wonder if I will ride through cold rain as well, tonight.

I pass US 83 quickly. I reach a quick turnoff for I-10. I don't mind riding the interstate when I'm trying to get home quickly. I'm already ducking behind my windshield to keep the cooling evening air off me. I press on towards Kerrville knowing it's about an hour from home. I see a DPS car ahead of me who pulls into the left lane and slows to about 65. "This can't be good", I think to myself. I pass him at about 70 mph. He pulls behind me and the lights go on. I tap my breaks and motion that I'm pulling over. I stop the bike on the median. As I turn off the bike, I notice my bright light indicator is burning. I must have turned it on by mistake when I raised the windshield shortly before pulling onto I-10!

After a polite exchange with the officer who complained that I had blinded him (rightfully so!) and the other "formalities," I pulled back onto the road with my headlights on "low." The officer's words "Is it cool enough for ya?" rang through my head as I made my way to Fredricksburg. Having used my one fortunate encounter for the evening, I noticed several other law enforcement vehicles before reaching Kerrville and kept my operation smooth, unobtrusive and legal.

I pulled into a station at Kerrville, filled up the FJR and warmed up for a bit. I called home and provided my ETA. A few minutes of rest and observing the locals (and the guy who put the same coffee in the 'Decaf' pot as the 'Regular' pot) I geared back up and rode home. The heavier traffic weighed heavily on me. I longed for the empty roads as much as I longed to be home, warm.

I pulled into San Antonio, home at last.