Pleasant Returns

I'm back from my little voyage. It was wonderful in many ways, and I intend to share pictures, experiences, rides, my thoughts about motorcycle travel and personal insight over this week and the next.

In general, I went to West Texas and toured the area around and north of Big Bend. I stayed in Davis Mountains State Park (which I heartily recommend to anyone) for two nights, using it as a base camp for visiting the surrounding areas.

I traveled down the infamous (and remarkable) River Road, the scenic loop around the Davis Mountains, did a "star party" at McDonald Observatory and hiked in Guadalupe National Park. I did swing through New Mexico, but for the most part I found it dissatisfying and probably will not take the same path again.


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My accessory lights paid for themselves on the way back home. A deer and been hit and then hit again as it was split in two on the highway. (I saw an immense amount of roadkill throughout the trip.) Thanks to the lights, I was able to see the obstacle and make evasive maneuvers to avoid a disastrous impact.

I squeezed in a little reading - something I rarely accomplish at home nowadays. But the major idea I brought home from the reading and camping (and even the riding) occurred to me on the way home: when you take care of life first, you will enjoy it more. It seems bizzare that it needs mention, but I needed to vocalize it. I've been in the process of rearranging my priorities (especially since I'm going to be a new father) and this simple idea helped clarify and focus that process.

This is also the first trip where I greatly missed my wife. Usually I enjoy getting away so I can recharge and "refresh my batteries" but this time I really wanted her to be with me to share my experiences. So I'm working up in the back of my mind a plan for such a voyage...

I'd like to thank the many friendly and largely anonymous people that I met along the way for making this trip so enjoyable: The guys who rode in from SA, Rex on his R80, the biker from Houston, the friendly staff at the Davis Mountains State Park and the older couple hiking in the Guadalupe National Park. I'd also like to thank my wife for letting me go (see I came back - no leash necessary!) who I love very, very much. I thank God for a safe trip.

Later!

The Wedding

Madison Wisconsin

Okay, so I'm not into protests. I'm not anti-war or a disaffected college student (well, maybe). I'm not a hippy, nor am I extremely environmentally "conscious." However, I am a fan of all things two-wheeled. Madison, Wisconsin enchanted me with its many, many bicycle paths, laid back atmosphere and places for people to relax and enjoy a weekend.

So Madison has high taxes and a heavy "liberal" presence. That's outside my norm, but it was pleasant nonetheless. If I could afford to live there, it'd be worth considering.

I got the okay at the last minute to leave for my uncle's wedding last Thursday, caught a flight early Friday morning and Friday afternoon I enjoyed seeing my uncle marry his beautiful bride.

So Saturday I hiked downtown Madison, camera in hand. I spent the night at a local campsite with other relatives, and hiked the nearby ski trails the next morning (so I have to assume that people still camp up there in heavy snow?) Again, trails, bike paths and places to see were spread out all over the place. Most enjoyable!

Sunday, I got to have lunch with my uncle and new aunt back in downtown Madison, and left for Northern Illinois to visit friends there. We watched the Spurs defeat the Cavaliers in game two. (Okay, I only stayed awake during the first half, but I heard it was a great game!)

Monday involved yard cleanup, which always seems to happen each time I visit. (Here comes the Chronic Rider - put him to work!). I drove back into Chicago for a late flight that evening and was back at work on time Tuesday.

I noticed all kinds of bikers on the roads between Chicago and Madison. Of the 50 or so maybe 5 wore helmets. Most wore little if any protective gear. I even saw one guy on a Goldwing (pic) wearing what appeared to be boxer shorts, sunglasses and flip flops. The traffic was simply terrible; driving less than 30 mph - when you were actually moving - seemed to be the norm on the freeways. And then there's the not-so-free ways: toll roads. Chicago has convinced me that toll roads are pure and simply a bad idea - ever.

The proximity to Milwaukee suggests an explanation for all the Harley motorcycles I saw. I cannot explain the other rider's behavior. I guess I'm used to people in Texas toughing it out wearing their helmets and riding gear in 100°F+ heat (and a helmet law of sorts is in effect). Those riders up North can't handle something? Hm...

What a weekend!

Grand Canyon 2006 (Part 5)

Our last full day in Arizona found us driving off to Monument Valley and Four Corners. It was a lot of driving, but we enjoyed that part of the trip. Both locations were run by Native Americans, each requiring entrance fees to drive in. A few days ago, this entire area had been blanketed by snow; now only those areas not affected by direct sunlight harbored patches of fugitive unmelted snow.

The monuments started well outside Monument Valley:

...but the monuments became more spectacular
inside the visiting area:

My father and brother soaking in Monument Valley:

Monument Valley at a glance:

Dad's gratuitous "I'm in four states at once" shot
in Four Corners:

We had a beautiful sunset that evening:

We spent one more night in Flagstaff and drove the two vehicles down to Pheonix. Dad caught a flight back to Florida there. My brother and I drove all night to arrive in San Antonio the next day. We did pass a curious spot (I don't remember where) on I-10 that was littered with white rabbits. (Remember the Matrix?) Well, a few of them had met an untimely fate. We also saw some weird cloud formations in Texas the next day. (The small pictures I have available right now don't do them any justice).

Maybe the next time I hike the Grand Canyon it will be after spring break and a bit warmer...

My sunburn from hiking the Grand Canyon:

My brother's sunburn was worse!

Grand Canyon 2006 (Part 4)

I spent some time wandering around Horseshoe Mesa. After spending over an hour that night coughing intensely, I was able to get some sleep. My sleeping touched the end of my tent, which filled with condensation - that froze to my sleeping bag. So my toes were very cold the next morning.

Note the higher elevations of the Southern Rim
still had snow.

Above and below: looking across the Grand Canyon
from Horseshoe Mesa.

Looking North following the Colorado River
to the horizon.

We debating staying on Horseshoe Mesa one more night. The previous afternoon after establishing camp, I wandered around the Mesa and had pretty much seen all there was to do there. I wanted to hike, but dad was opposed to going down either of the adjacent trails. We were all a little disappointed, but we decided that the best option was to hike out of the Grand Canyon that day.

Looking south following the Colorado River to the horizon.

A full moon provided plenty of light
all night long.

The morning was exceptionally cold.
Below: I donned every bit of warm clothing I had
with me and I was still cold. Nothing like lugging
a heavy pack up a steep trail to warm you up!

The Grand Canyon as we left it - with a lot less
snow than the day before!

We broke camp, packed up and began hiking back to the rim. We encountered some park rangers who were very helpful and considerate of our situation, though they frowned quite readily at diverging from out itinerary. Having explained our reasoning - and they agreed - they were willing to write us a warning instead of a citation and change our itinerary for us (which we declined).

The hike up was quick and uneventful. Much of the snow began melting. By the time we approached the rim, we were hiking on mud and rocks. The last hundred vertical feet of the hike out I began feeling unwell. This seemed strange as I outpaced the other two yesterday and much of today. By the time we were off the trail and back in the parking lot (where there was much less snow) I was feeling very tired, irritable and generally unwell. (I made my excuse to get away from the tourists wanting pictures of the "Real Grand Canyon Hikers" with as little rudeness as possible. The backpack came off. Then I became light-headed. I started coughing, a little at first and intensifying quickly. Dad got worried, but I was breathing mostly okay. I wheezed a quite bit during intense coughing for the next hour and a half. I stayed in the van while my brother and father visited some of the other overlooks. I thought to myself what a predicament I would have been had this episode happened down by the river, far away from any kind of help. The cold/flu I had about two weeks ago still had its claws in me; stressing my body this way allowed it to attack me one last time. The coughing/wheezing attacks settled down and we made our way back to Flagstaff.

Above and below: We pulled off at several stops on
Highway 64 as we approached US 89.

Below: Mountains seen from US 89 still covered in snow.